This is an extra long post. Typically we try to keep posts under a 5 or 6 minute read, but this has been a challenge, even after a fair amount of trimming, because we are having such a wonderful time on the start of our southbound hike and there are a lot of fun stories to share. Instead of stretching this across two separate weeks, it is written as two parts, both about a four-minute read.
1) Harpers Ferry to Front Royal
2) Front Royal to midway into Shenandoah National Park
Harpers Ferry to Front Royal
Begin: Day 97- Friday, July 26, Harpers Ferry, WV
End: Day 101-Tuesday, August 29, Front Royal, VA
Most Trail Miles in a day this period: 13.5
Total Trail Miles Hiked: 942.1
Photos corresponding to this part can be found in the “Northern VA & WV” folder
Day 97- Friday, July 26
Start: US 340, Quality Inn, WV - 1025.8
End: Blackburn Trail Center - 1013.8
Miles: 12.0
Ascent: 2435 | Descent: 1359
It was time start our southbound portion of our hike in earnest. After a decent breakfast from the Quality Inn we headed back to the trail around 7 am.
As we walked the border between West Virginia & Virginia, we saw several white tailed deer. Between yesterday and today, we saw at least five fawns and even more adults, including a velvety buck. The scenery was a nice change of pace from the lush alpine like forests of New England to the arid looking hardwood forest south of Harpers Ferry. There has not been a lot of understory here, so we can see a good distance into the forest. Although the entire AT has rocks and roots, they are spaced out more now, making the terrain friendlier, and our hiking faster.
Our packs felt heavy as we headed up into the mountains. We figured part of that was due taking six days of rest, and partly due to carrying four days of food. Towards the end of the day my feet were very tired, and we both were generally fatigued. At least my achilles felt fine, so maybe our six resting days provided enough time for it to heal.
Right before calling it a day at the Blackburn Center shelter, we crossed the 900 miles hiked milestone. While at the shelter we had the opportunity to meet a couple of trail legends, Christer Marshburn & Trailboss.
Day 98- Saturday, July 27
Start: Blackburn - 1013.8
End: tentsite near Buzzard Hill - 1001.1
Miles: 12.7
Ascent: 3323 | Descent: 3654
After a three-mile hike we reached the infamous roller coaster. This is a 14-mile stretch of the trail with 10 peaks to climb and only one view. After the climbs of New Hampshire and Maine, we found the roller coaster to not be so terrible. During this stretch of trail we left West Virginia for the last time. We also saw a sign indicating that we have 1000 miles to go to reach Springer Mountain, the southern terminus of the AT in Georgia.
For several miles between Raven Rocks and Bears Den Rocks it was a very busy trail with lots and lots of day hikers. One day hiker asked if we were thru hikers, then he gave us gave us each a Gatorade and a Snickers bar. It was such a kind treat, especially since finding water sources has been challenging today. The day ended at a tentsite that we had all to ourselves, other than the fire flies!
Day 99- Sunday, July 28
Start: tentsite near Buzzard Hill - 1001.1
End: Whiskey Hollow Shelter Tentsite - 987.6
Miles: 13.5
Ascent: 3094 | Descent: 2869
This morning we completed the last two peaks of the roller coaster. After the last peak, the forest was filled in with a lot of understory, creating the green tunnel effect that the Appalachian Trail is so well known for. Also, water is more plentiful in this part of the trail.
I have felt tired at the end of each day, which I attribute to taking several days off, and perhaps due to getting reacquainted with normal hiking where you can stride all day, as opposed to climbing boulders or hopping through roots and muddy terrain. I’ve also have some muscle soreness; this has surprised me since that hasn’t happened since the first two weeks back in April.
Day 100- Monday
Start: Whiskey Hollow Shelter Tentsite - 987.6
End: Denton Shelter - 977.6
Miles: 10.0
Ascent: 2190 | Descent: 2187
This was a shorter but interesting day. At lunch we stopped at a nice spot on trail that had picnic table and a stream to collect water. As we were about to pack up after finishing our lunch, a truck with a camper pulled up and asked if we were thru-hikers. When we turned to look answer him, all three of us recognized each other. We met Jerry back in Connecticut. He is supporting his wife on her flip flop thru hike. They are also sailors from Punta Gorda that we hope to cruise with someday. His wife, trail name Barfight, recently summited Katahdin and flipped back to Harprs Ferry this morning. He was setting up the camper here to catch her as she passes through tomorrow.
After lunch we had a very odd encounter with another hiker. I turned a corner and saw a hiker in his 60’s without a shirt on, which is not unusual. As my eyes continued to take in information, my brain said, “please tell me he is wearing shorts”. Nope, he was just swinging away. When he realized that we were there, cupped himself, then placed some clothing over his groin. He looked very surprised and asked if any more hikers were behind us. The whole thing was odd. Later, after we set up our tent at the Denton Shelter, he walked up to a picnic table. At least this time he was wearing shorts. He just stopped to snack and gather water from the nearby spring. It was a happy sight to see him leave. This experience was followed by another, but pleasing, visitor: a cute, talkative cat.
Day 101- Tuesday
Start: Denton Shelter - 977.6
End: Front Royal, VA - 972.7
Miles: 4.9
It was a beautiful hike from our shelter to a hiker friendly bed & breakfast in Front Royal. There was fog in the air making everything look so lush. Once again we did not see many people out on the trail; at least those we saw looked very normal and were fully clothed.
After arriving at the Mountain Home B & B, owned and operated by a past thru-hiker, we got cleaned up and headed into town for our normal tasks of buying groceries and eating in restaurants. I also needed new shoes and had excellent service from Iron Mike, a ‘23 thru hiker, at Mountain Trails an outfitter store in Front Royal.
Front Royal to midway into Shenandoah National Park
Begin: Day 102- Wednesday, July 31, Front Royal, VA
End: Day 104- Friday, August 2, Big Meadows Lodge, Shenandoah National Park, VA
Most Trail Miles in a day this period: 17.5
Total Trail Miles Hiked: 987.7
Photos taken in Shenandoah National Park are in a separate folder found here:
Day 102- Wednesday
Start: Front Royal, VA - 972.7
End: Gravel Springs Hut tentsite - 959.0
Miles: 13.7
Ascent: 3711 | Descent: 2206
Our B & B served a delicious breakfast of blueberry pancakes and a side of perfectly ripe, local peaches. Fruit and vegetables are foods we crave a lot while hiking.
From there it was a short hike to enter Shenandoah National Park. On our hike we admired the plants, observed some wildlife, and thoroughly enjoyed the trail’s terrain.
We have found ripe blackberries on the trail the past few days. It’s been fun to eat them as we hike by. We even tasted an apple that we picked from a tree, but were not brave enough to actually eat it.
Wildlife seems more abundant in the park. We saw wild turkey, white tail deer, rabbits and squirrels today. There were signs of bear activity around Mount Marshall (which we crossed over at elevation 3,362’). First we noticed lots of overturned rocks and logs where bears find grubs to eat. Then we saw a giant pile of bear scat on the trail. Unfortunately I did not see the second pile and firmly pressed my brand new shoe into it.
A big joy is the smoother trail terrain. It is mostly a park-like path helping me hike a lot faster. There are places where it appears that they moved rocks out of the trail path.
A funny story that could have been horrible happened when I visited a privy at our shelter site. My phone fell out of my pocket and onto the floor, then slid into a gap along the wall. It got hung up with just an inch still poking above the floor, hanging well above the privy contents. I was absolutely horrified, but was able to grab the phone with two fingers to lodge it out. I am feeling rather lucky at the moment as I type on my well cleaned phone.
Day 103- Thursday
Start: Gravel Springs Hut tentsite - 959.0
End: Birds Nest 3 Hut tentsite - 941.5
Miles: 17.5
Ascent: 4200 | Descent: 3400
After hiking about six miles we stopped at our first park wayside (Elkwallow) for an early lunch of Jimmy Dean sausage croissants and a yogurt. The wayside also had a spigot to fill up our water bottle along with real restrooms with flush toilets and running water.
Our hike got stalled a few minutes when we came across a big rattlesnake in the afternoon. It was happy to stay in the middle of the trail until we threw enough rocks at it to slither away shaking its tail.
At 14.8 miles into the day, we took a long break at the Panorama parking lot which also had restrooms. From here, we had three miles to complete. In the end we covered nearly 18 miles between 6:30 am & 5:30 pm, a tiring, but doable day.
Day 104- Friday
Start: Birds Nest 3 - 941.5
End: Big Meadows Lodge - 927.1
Miles: 14.4
Ascent: 3085 | Descent: 2710
For the second day in a row, we hiked six miles to a park facility that had food available. Although the distance was the same as yesterday, the hiking was more difficult so we had to push really hard to make it before the grill at Skyline Resort shut down between 10 and 11:30. In just under three hours we were sitting in the rustic-retro dining room ordering breakfast.
Shortly after leaving the dining room the AT took us past the Skyland Resort stables. A woman working at the stables noticed my joy at seeing a group head our on a ride and she invited me to pet the horses in the stables. I made sure to pet every one. My only regret is not telling the worker about our trail names. I would love to see her reaction to “Trail Horse”.
Overall the hiking today was gorgeous as we moved along in the shade of giant boulders, walked along mountain ridges or on the edge of cliffs, and had an occasional short rubble area to cross. Sometimes the trees would be thin or low enough for views of the valley way below, reminding us just how high in the mountains we are.
Around 3 pm we arrived at Big Meadows Lodge for the evening. After eating our dinners in the restaurant we had an extra treat of running into Barfight and Jerry as they celebrated her 52nd birthday.
You two are amazing!!! Lots of ups and downs, literally and figuratively! I really empathize with the trips and falls (I’m a bit prone too). Is it just Sondra or Jimmy too? And if you haven’t talked about it—would love to know your trail food list? Thank you for your posts!!! Continue to trek on safely!! cb (c bray)
What a wonderful adventure! Thanks for hiking this for all of us who only dream of making the epic journey. Wonderful to hear about the nature. Hanging out on the trail, with the naturists, not so much!